Jerusalem, Golden City
A trip to the historic Old City of Jerusalem is a jaw-dropping, goose bump-inducing experience. As you enter the souk, with its tight, zigzag streets and colorful stalls, it's nearly impossible not to feel history rushing by.
Wandering through the twisted alleys, one hears a Babel of languages - Arabic, Hebrew and English, among others- punctuated by wafts of Arabic music. Your nose will be working overtime trying to identify strange smells.
On thoroughfares paved with old cobblestones, a parade of monks, orthodox Jews, Arabs and tourists from all over the globe squeeze by.
Beyond the sensory crush, it's a challenge to fathom just how much history actually happened here.
After all, some of these old pathways were walked by giants of the past: King David, King Herod, even Jesus.
Three major religions have profound roots in this dense, ancient walled area, each marked by their respective holy sites. Some of the holiest places sit almost on top of one another. In less than fifteen minutes, for instance, one can walk to:
- The Western Wall, a holy Jewish site marking the Israelites' Second Temple, destroyed by the Romans in 70 AD.
- The Via Dolorosa, marking Jesus' path carrying the cross.
- The Dome of the Rock, which marks where Muhammad is thought to have ascended to heaven.
Visit in Jerusalem's Old City
For ease of navigation, it's helpful to know that the Old City is divided into four official quarters: the Jewish, Arab, Armenian and Christian Quarters. Beyond this small area are Israel's modern West Jerusalem, and largely Arab East Jerusalem.
Don't miss the following eight must-sees, salted throughout the Old City.
1. Shopping: In Jerusalem's Old City, it's fun to look for embroidered Bedouin-style dresses, woven bags, bronze Turkish tea sets, painted pottery, menorahs, silver chandelier earrings, bangles and bracelets, copper candlesticks, pots and mirrors, keffiyahs, good-luck hands of Fatima, and hookahs. Be prepared to barter, if only for the fun of it.
For antiquities, buy only at government-licensed antiquities dealers such as Victor Barakat (45-48 David Street).
For Judaica, Israeli jewelry and crafts, visit the Jewish Quarter and shops along the Roman-Byzantine market street called the Cardo.
2. Museum at the Tower of David: Set within the walls of Jerusalem's Old City near the Jaffa Gate, the Tower of David is a medieval citadel. Come early to meander through the excavations, up turrets and around the actual city wall, and you'll be rewarded with 360-degree views of old and new Jerusalem, including the Old City and Mount Scopus. Exhibits detail Jerusalem's rollercoaster history from the second millennium BCE until today. Don't miss the sound and light show.
3. Church of the Holy Sepulchre: Built by Emperor Constantine I with the help of his mother Helena in the 4th century, this is where Jesus was laid out after his death, according to Christian belief. Five stations of the Cross are inside the Church.
4. Via Dolorosa: This path, accepted since the 18th century to have been where Jesus carried the cross, is marked by nine stations. As archaeologists reveal more about ancient Jerusalem, academic discussion continues over his precise route.
5. The Church of the Ascension: This church memorializes where Jesus ascended to heaven, according to Christian belief.
6. Wailing Wall: For generations, Jews have made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem to pray at this holy site. Called the "Kotel" (it rhymes with "hotel" but means "wall"), it was long considered the spot nearest to the original Jewish Temple, destroyed in 70 AD before the Diaspora. This open-air area, with one side reserved for men and the other for women, is often jammed with pious Jews, especially on Friday nights.
7. Western Wall Underground Tunnel Tour: Thanks to a post-1967 excavation, visitors on this underground tour can stand in the remains of great Roman halls, trod on a section of Roman road, and see a water tunnel and pool dating to the 1st century BC. Intrepid tourists can even wade through an ancient aqueduct.
8. Davidson Archaeological Center: A few hundred feet away from the Western Wall is a stunning excavation. It elucidates both a 7th-century CE Umayyad palace and Herod's Temple, including a plaza and royal Stoa.
Security: Many first time tourists wonder if Jerusalem's Old City is safe. The answer is yes. Tourist routes are lit and patrolled. That said, the Dome of the Rock and Al Aksa Mosque are often closed to tourists. But both are well worth a visit, so inquire at your hotel or a Tourist Information booth.
The Old City brings history alive in a remarkable way and reminds visitors of how much the three major Western religions share.
About the Author: Ellen Freudenheim is author of Looking Forward: An Optimist's Guide To Retirement (Stewart Tabori Chang 2004). www.lookingforward2.com.
